Boulder’s Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau, of France, have set a new women’s speed record for climbing the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon in 37 minutes and eight seconds. The previous record was held by Kelleghan and Becca Droz at 37 minutes and 40 seconds. The new record was achieved on March 28.
The two climbers wrote about their adventure and accomplishment for Planet Mountain. Kelleghan explained that the Naked Edge has been on her radar since she started climbing because she grew up in Boulder. The climb is rated as 5.11b, which is considered an advanced climb. The rating system is considered subjective, but currently the most difficult rating for a climb is 5.15d and a novice climb is ranked at 5.3.
The first time Kelleghan climbed the Naked Edge, she fell on every 5.11 section and it took her a total of eight hours to complete.
“After being inducted into the eclectic and wonderful crew of Naked Edge speed addicts, I whittled my time down over seasons, trying to get closer to the mythical pioneers who had gone sub-30,” Kelleghan said. “I realized that no women were speed climbing the edge, much less with another woman. Thus, I wrangled Eldo crusher and aficionado Becca Droz. Together, we went faster and faster, setting the first-ever women’s record at 37 minutes and 40 seconds in September of 2021.”
Both climbers have embarked upon adventures in Yosemite National Park, the site of famous documentaries such as “Free Solo” and “Valley Uprising.” When Kelleghan visited France, she met Pineau and soon the two began to plot an attempt at a new speed record at the Naked Edge as part of their training to eventually reach their climbing goals in Yosemite.
Kelleghan and Pineau started their record-breaking day last month with a warm-up climb without pressure. Then they attempted to break the record on the next climb, but had shoelace issues and a loose rope coil. They fell short of breaking the record by 10 seconds. They had plenty of time to make another lap and were able to break the previous record by 32 seconds.
Stefan Griebel and Joe Kennedy have the male speed record at the Naked Edge with a time of 22 minutes and 44 seconds. The record was set on October 22, 2022.
